Range Rover Evoque Rear Brake Pad Replacement / Installation + Park Brake Maintenance Mode [How To]

The Range Rover Evoque brake pads are running low. This how to Range Rover Evoque Rear Brake Pad Replacement video will cover the basics required to fully replace your worn out pads for brand new pads. Pads used in this how to are Brembo pads but can use which ever you wish.

Hello guys and welcome back to the channel so in this video we are replacing the rear brake pads on the range rover evoke stay tuned so the rear brake pads they’re completely worn down and they’re due to be replaced so i think i’ll bring you guys along so this comes with the shims and obviously you get a complete rear set yeah and these are a lot bigger than what’s

In the car at the minute basically there’s about two or three mil on one of them so they’re definitely overdue so let’s get the car in the drive get the rear end jacked up wheels off go inside the car and we need to basically disengage the electronic rear brake so when you put the car into hamburg maintenance mode so i think the way to do this is handbrake down

And then accelerate it down and then start stop on off and it’ll make a winding noise and once the winding stops park break in maintenance mode yeah so they’re pretty low gonna need some springs hmm the springs actually snapped blah deal so the caliber let’s get this off 30 mil bolts one here and one there then this should just pull off 16 mil to hold that in

Place and then remove this board just like that nice so these are the pads pretty low not too low to be fair i thought they’re much lower yes there’s a good cut mill left on them but they’re getting there the wear marks haven’t came through yet the squeal pads um i don’t have them i’ve got the mot during a few weeks so definitely doing also the rear coil

Spring is completely snapped i don’t know if you could pick that up on video but it is completely sheared and is pretty much an inch lower so i have to pick up some of them also but yeah these are ready to go back in these are for the trash they are pasta you can clean them up when you buy good bricks you get new ones so we’ll use these also new bolts it’s

Best to use new bolts i have some thread lock on them already so just go straight in let’s pull these out it’s easy to clean these aren’t too bad they’re a big grubby but the grease is less than two-year-old because i’ll put in there so just get thick out like so and some proper grease grace so so so break up accelerate a pedal all

The way at the bottom ignition off back on can you hear that there you go so as you see if we’ve got the warnings show onions we have bonnet organ and that is it pump the pedal a few times pedal is solid i’ll go and check the brake fluid reservoir and then start the engine and take a test drive so just a bit of a recap it’s a 13 mil socket or spanner that you

Will need to remove the two bulbs off the caliper once you free them up they will more than likely start rotating a 16mm spanner some pliers anything basically just to grab hold of the actual pin itself to stop it from rotating once your bolts out pull the whole entire caliper out put on top you can tie it back if you wish or just balance it like i did on top

Of the hub and then remove your pads put in new plates bottom and top make sure you use some brake grease and apply some grease to the top and bottom pads so you’ve got your pads in place the next step is to push the piston back now if you have successfully put the brake the rear brake calipers into maintenance mode you can technically if you get a big enough

Set of pliers or a breaker bar you can push the piston back you don’t have to rewind it it’s a push back piston but i just used a rewind tool and basically you just put this in place where the pad would be as you see in the footage and tighten it up once it’s snug just rotate the handle here and it’ll just gradually push it back and so if this is on your disc

And your disc is here as you can see there’s actually some marks here where the caliper was sitting to make sure you put blob of grease there on there and then on the pad which would be on the other side as you can see there’s some marks that’s off the actual piston make sure that’s greased and quite simply slide the piston back on put in your brand new bolts

Which already have a lock tight on top them down and that is basically it go back inside the car take it out maintenance mode and pump the brake pedal a few times once it’s quite firm take a drive should be fine i’m putting the rear caliber in maintenance mode quite simply get in your car put the ignition on don’t start the engine don’t put your clutch in just

Ignition on put it in neutral and then you push the brake button down you put your foot flat on the accelerator pedal and then you turn the ignition on off and then leave it leave the finger on the brake and the foot on the gas lay them down until you hear the whining in the background now you stop that is the piston fully wound and that is it do the work you

Need to do when you’re ready to put it back into normal operator mode basically getting the car ignition on no engine just ignition push down the accelerator pedal but this time the brake button itself pull it up don’t push it down pull it up and while holding that up and the accelerator pedal down ignition on the ignition back off and you’ll hear the the whining

Sound again as the pistons come back out once that wind sound stops it should sit out of maintenance more than your dash and then you should be good to go the brake pads have been replaced it’s not a difficult job to do i’m surprised how fast these have worn down i did these almost two years ago and i would have expected these last a lot longer because i don’t

Really do any miles in this car this car has probably only covered 18 maybe 20 000 mile tops since i changed these so maybe it’s because of brembo pads maybe they’re quite soft and the way down fast and standard pads i’m not too sure but i have to keep an eye on that because these don’t actually have brake pad wear sensors maybe other models do my one doesn’t

Normally there’s a there’s a groove here and there’s a piece of metal and that’ll actually start squealing on the disc and that will let you know i’m assuming this shim which overlaps it slightly if this gets worn down saying if that if this pad’s as low as that then that is very low that’s like half a mil so that can’t be right there must be something inside

These pads when you start when you maybe get a bit lower when you get to like say one or two mil there might be some lumps in there which appear and they start making a squealing noise or maybe they don’t have anything to to warn you that yeah your pads are low with that i think we’re gonna end this one here guys so hopefully you’ve enjoyed the video hopefully

This has been educational hopefully it’s taught you something maybe you’ve watched one or two of these videos in the past and this one also combine them all together and it might actually give you a really good understanding of how to do this job and do it safely that is the most important thing just make sure you take it step by step take your time it’s not a

Rush make sure they’re in there properly make sure the brake pedal feels great take the test drive make sure it feels fine make sure it’s braking fine and yeah hopefully this saved you some money guys hopefully to talk to you something if it hasn’t please do leave a like and a comment down below that’d be much really appreciated so like always guys please do

Remember to like comment and subscribe and i will catch you in the next one you

Transcribed from video
Range Rover Evoque Rear Brake Pad Replacement / Installation + Park Brake Maintenance Mode [How To] By FIX it BUILD it GARAGE